Indigo
Indigofera tinctoria
The only dye here that ignores water. The vat must be starved of oxygen until the pigment dissolves yellow-green — dyers call the coppery sheen on top the flower. The blue is not in the bath; it happens on the walk to the washing line. Each dip lays one more layer of sky, and the vat forgives nothing done in a hurry.
Madder
Rubia tinctorum
Root, not flower — three years in the ground before it is worth lifting. Ground fine and kept below a simmer, it gives everything from shell pink to oxblood depending on your patience and the lime in your water. It built the red coats of two empires and it will stain your thumbnail for a fortnight.
Weld
Reseda luteola
The clearest yellow in the old world, from a roadside weed cut whole and dried standing. One dip gives straw; two give a yellow with light inside it. Over indigo it makes the greens the forests are named for. It asks nothing and fades slower than anything else on the floor.
Iron
Ferrous sulphate
Not a dye — a temper. A minute of iron drags any colour toward evening: weld goes bronze, madder goes garnet, indigo goes storm. On bare linen it is only grief. Use it last, use it lightly, and rinse the tongs before they touch the madder vat.